Catching up with bits from 7th Feb

French Knots on the centre hillock!  Now you see them… 

And out they came!!!!  Which left me with a quandary; what should I do instead – well that’s a decision to put on the back burner for now….

Having completed the diagonals in class, the homework was to get on with the Burden stitch.  I decided to work the burden stitch in three textures to produce some variation across the left hand hillock.  Starting with two strands of the Light Effects E5200, merging into one strand of E5200 with one strand floss, merging into one strand floss with one strand S5200, then two strands S5200.  The French Knots on the middle hillock had been cut out so the next decision was what should replace them.  I wanted a lighter more open texture for the appearance of a hillock in the distance;  Next piece for homework to practise a pulled work stitch.

Hooray!!!! the central hillock is complete – I used Wave Stitch with one strand of S5200.  Rather than use a solid trailing for the edges  I have laid two strand of S5200, couched down with one strand of E5200 every two threads.  The left hand hillock is similar but with four stands of S5200.  The edges are less prominent than the stems, and have a sparkle to them!

Now they are finished there is a bit of a mess on the back of the work which needs tidying up to secure all the loose threads.

Now I have to get on with the rest of the trailing to try to get finished before the next lesson with Tracy on 28 Feb.

This is what should have been posted two weeks ago, but I forgot all about writing up the blog. 

The weather outside is atrocious.  We  have 30cm of snow in the back garden, and as I write this there is a massive blizzard bowing.  I have wimped out of going to Tracy’s even though it is just over half a mile away.  The road to the front of the house is completely blocked – not a single car in the street has been moved today!  It’s a day to stay inside and keep warm.

More Reverse Stitching!!!

First lesson of a new term, continuing with the whitework.  During the winter break I thought I had made quite a bit of progress, but had paused for a while as I was not completely satisfied with the Burden Stitch on the left-hand hillock despite three attempts at trying to do it.  So discussion with Tracy and Yes out it came completely.  We agreed that the diagonal bars were just too heavy!  Tracy suggested that I stitch a horizontal and vertical grid with a very fine lace thread  as guide lines for my diagonals.  The thread is so fine it is almost invisible, but is doing the job!  By the end of the day I had managed to get the new diagonal bars in, this time stitched with 1 strand of cotton floss.  Homework is to finish the burden stitch.  Photos to follow...

Progress from December and early January

There's been a bit of gap with recording my progress.  Most of my homeworks have been trying to do more trailing and practising the weaving on the drawn thread work for hillocks.  Although I like the texture this creates I am not convinced it will be right for this piece of work.  So I am revising my thoughts on this.

In the mean time I have finished the calices on the top motifs:  

The padding is Perle No5, this was worked on one half for the shape then covered with satin stitch in No.16 Coton à Broder.  The satin stitch was worked on a steep diagonal from the centre line to the tip, carefully keeping the diagonals in keeping with the curved shape.  Then work the opposite side of the shape in a similar way.   I worked the calix that appears to be behind the others first.   

I'm pleased I have finished these as they have taken a long time for me to get going on them.

The left hand stem has also been completed.  Working the raised chain band.  Split stitch the outline as usual.  Using Perle No. 5 for the bars, work from the lower end, where the horizontal bars are 4 threads apart, slightly adjusted to a diagonal around the curve, at the top of the stem, bars are three threads apart.  Begin raised chain band from the top and work downwards.  Stitched with Perle No.8.  Two long lines stitched full length of the stem, pushed to the outer edges of the shape.  A third line introduced part way down the stem (from the top) to fill the centre of the stem.  A fourth, then fifth line introduced on either side of the centre line to fill the stem.  The split stitch then covered with trailing.

Now I have finished the stems I can think about the hillocks.  Having rejected the weaving I have planned for something more conventional.  There will be some kind of trellis work, Burden stitch and knots for the three hillocks based on Crewel work designs and stitches.  

The right-hand hillock was inspired by an image of a fish in one of Tracy’s books (I forgot to note which book it was!!).  I like the double thread diagonal trellising with vertical crosses securing the threads.  I plan to work the trellis in No. 20 Coton à Broder (8 threads apart), with the crosses worked with diamant. I'm still practising the burden stitch for the left hand hillock to work out the spacings.  I also need to practise the French and Bulion knots for the middle hillock.

I of course got side-tracked with the collection of books on Tracy’s shelves and made an instant purchase of “Crewel Work in England” by Joan Edwards (1975).  Not only does this have a good section on the history of English embroidery in addition to crewel work it also has some very good ideas for stitching different motifs (and very good line drawings) from the Jacobean period and more modern ideas.

Latest Progress December

My lesson with Tracy on 1 December was a review of the progress so far and what is left to do.  I am still pondering what to do about the hillocks.  So far I have practised pulling out the horizontal threads to replace the surface with some weaving - I am still not certain about this so will need to think about the hillocks some more (I might put this off until I have finished the other parts) There is a LOT of trailing to do!  All the shapes and stems need the outlining and I need to practise the padded stem stitch for each calix of the large motifs.  The small stem on the left hand side needs attention too.  My thoughts are for a raised chain stitch but this will need practise.

Homework to do before next lesson on 15 December - do as much trailing as I can and aim to complete the padded stem stitch.

6 & 7 November Homework – completing the left hand motif

I have completed the large motif on the left-hand side (centre section) Hooray Hooray!!.  This was the laddering (1 strand of DMC cotton floss) over two threads all around the outside of the pointed shape.  On the inside of this is the trellis work; the horizontals and verticals worked with no.20 Coton à Broder, with a spacing of two threads.  Split stitch around the edge of the trellis and the laddering to provide a firm base for all the trailing around the trellis, laddering and pulled work sections.  I wanted this to be less prominent than the leaf section below so used a two-strand core of no.16 Coton à Broder, instead of a three-strand core. Then finally stitched crosses over the intersections of the trellis with DMC Diamant D5200.  I like the effect of the Diamant, although the photo doesn’t show the sparkle on this section.  Completing this small section of the motif took eight hours.

Completed left hand motif

I found stitching the whole section more difficult than anticipated.  The laddering is not very even in some places as it goes around the curve.  Similarly, the trailing around the curves was difficult as pushing the needle through the tight stitching was tricky.  

The crosses on the trellis took a whole morning to complete as the spacing between each horizontal and vertical is very small.  

Now I have taken a photo of the motif I can also see some holes in the net stitching, these will have to be mended when the organdie is cut away.  

Unfortunately, the Moyra McNeill book I ordered on drawn thread work has not arrived, so I have not been able to practise some designs for the hillocks.  I will have to do this at Tracy’s in my next lesson.

Getting on with it, and the reveal!

Originally my aim of homework for next lesson on 27 October was to get the sampling out of the way…  and complete a new piece of Net darning for the work.

22 October focused on the practise of leaf pairs hanging down from the main stems.  One part of the pair will be the Chequer Grounding using 1 strand of S5200; stitched on the diagonal with a gap between sequences 12321 – 12321 – 12321;  the gap between the rows is filled with a 121 pattern with Diamant thread.  The other side will be Raised Fishbone stitch, these need some practise to find a suitable thread not only to suit the stitch and thread count of fabric, but also to complement its leaf partner.  Start by neatly outlining the shape with a single strand of cotton floss, then use 2 strands for the filling.  The cotton is OK but need to use a mellor to keep the strands flat rather than twisted.  Need to use a sharp needle to pierce the fabric to get stitches close to each other for the best effect.  Second sample used Perle no.8.

I had intended to finish the laddering around the edge of the large motif with fine trailing around the part of the motif.  BUT

23 October – I decided to just go for it. stop phaffing around and do some stitching on my actual piece of work.  Having completed the replacement piece of net darning, I tacked both patterns onto my work.  Today I started the trailing! A triple core of no.16  Coton à Broder with one stand wrap.  To finish the basic layer I also did the padding ready for the satin stitch which will be covered Coton à Broder no. 20 as the surface stitch.

Trailing and padding preparation for cutting away the surface linen

I have to say I am quite pleased with the trailing. 

24 October – a steady hand needed, with great trepidation I cut the linen surface. Snipping very carefully into the spaces between the curves.  Then a line of split stitch beside the trailing ready for the second line; I used the triple core of No.16 as before.  Then completed the padded satin stitch.  

This was a very intensive day of stitching!  Here it is - the great reveal stage 1  and in close up below:

Ta Dah! The net insert complete

Close up of net insert

Right hand side motif with net darning insert

Having made such good progress, I got on with the leaf motif for the right hand side.  The net darning pattern is a star shape.  Unfortunately this has not been as effective as the flower pattern.  The coverage within the cut away section does not show much of the net darning.  I also had some problems when cutting away the organdie from the back of the work and a small repair had to be made with 160 lace thread.  Still it is done - this side took six hours to complete.  

The motif on the left hand side worked much better as the pattern was more solid filling the open area more effectively.

Left hand side motif with net darning insert

Practising the net darning insert for the leaf motif

18-20 October:  

I completed the net darning some time ago.  The time has come to get on with inserting it into a full-scale sample on my practice piece.  Tracy suggested some points to remember:  Organdie can be used as the support on the back of the work but this must be on the same grain as the linen top fabric.  The net darning itself can be at an angle if this fits in with the overall design.  This is good news at the leaf sections are at different angles on the left and right side of my design.

The shape outline should already be on the linen from the tack and tear, but check this absolutely accurate.  Use a fine thread (e.g. a double thread of 160 lace thread), and a small running stitch for the outline of the shape to be filled on the top layer (the linen), this must be absolutely accurately placed.  This will be used as the guide line for the outline trailing later.

Line up the grain of the organdie to the linen, cut a rectangle of organdie that is at least 1cm bigger all round than the shape to be filled.  

Keeping the net flat, place this right side up on the organdie at the desired angle.  Tack into position.  Place this on the back of the linen so the net is the filling in the sandwich -  make absolutely sure the net is in the right place – you won’t be able to see it from the front while stitching.  Tack the three layers together neatly so they don’t move.  Hold the fabric up to the light to check the net is exactly where it should be. 

Another thing I learned after completing the sample  - I should have looked more closely at this stage - I would have seen that the tacking was going to get caught in the stitching... 

Split stitch the outline from the top securing the sandwich together.  Using the chosen threads (e.g. two strands of coton a broder no 16, as the core, and one to wrap), very neatly use trailing around the shape on top of the split stitch.

When trailing is complete, very, very carefully snip at the linen layer close to the trailing to reveal the net stitching below.  Use a pair of lace makers scissors with a ball point on the blades – this should help reduce the possibility of accidentally cutting the net ….

Oops another little diversion and purchase…  have just bought a pair of napping/applique scissors – they have arrived, but they look rather big for delicate work!

The result:   I managed to do the net insert.  See the image of sample.

Overall, I am happy the effect, but the execution needs some improvement.  There are some things I would do differently:

Do not use a coloured tacking thread – IT IS going to get caught up in the stitching and be a nightmare to remove – use a fine white lace cotton thread.

Split stitch and pad the area for satin stitch DO NOT Complete satin stitch until the linen is cut away.

I used two rows of trailing – 2 threads of coton a broder no.16  on the inner row, 3 core on the outer.   Only do the outer row of trailing before snipping away the top layer of linen.  When the linen is cut away, then do the inner row of trailing and the padded satin stitch, this should help mask any stray linen threads at the edges. 

My next lesson is 27 October – I must have some progress on my actual piece of work.

Having used the net darning for my sample I need to complete another piece on the silk net for my actual work.