Getting on with it, and the reveal!

Originally my aim of homework for next lesson on 27 October was to get the sampling out of the way…  and complete a new piece of Net darning for the work.

22 October focused on the practise of leaf pairs hanging down from the main stems.  One part of the pair will be the Chequer Grounding using 1 strand of S5200; stitched on the diagonal with a gap between sequences 12321 – 12321 – 12321;  the gap between the rows is filled with a 121 pattern with Diamant thread.  The other side will be Raised Fishbone stitch, these need some practise to find a suitable thread not only to suit the stitch and thread count of fabric, but also to complement its leaf partner.  Start by neatly outlining the shape with a single strand of cotton floss, then use 2 strands for the filling.  The cotton is OK but need to use a mellor to keep the strands flat rather than twisted.  Need to use a sharp needle to pierce the fabric to get stitches close to each other for the best effect.  Second sample used Perle no.8.

I had intended to finish the laddering around the edge of the large motif with fine trailing around the part of the motif.  BUT

23 October – I decided to just go for it. stop phaffing around and do some stitching on my actual piece of work.  Having completed the replacement piece of net darning, I tacked both patterns onto my work.  Today I started the trailing! A triple core of no.16  Coton à Broder with one stand wrap.  To finish the basic layer I also did the padding ready for the satin stitch which will be covered Coton à Broder no. 20 as the surface stitch.

Trailing and padding preparation for cutting away the surface linen

I have to say I am quite pleased with the trailing. 

24 October – a steady hand needed, with great trepidation I cut the linen surface. Snipping very carefully into the spaces between the curves.  Then a line of split stitch beside the trailing ready for the second line; I used the triple core of No.16 as before.  Then completed the padded satin stitch.  

This was a very intensive day of stitching!  Here it is - the great reveal stage 1  and in close up below:

Ta Dah! The net insert complete

Close up of net insert

Right hand side motif with net darning insert

Having made such good progress, I got on with the leaf motif for the right hand side.  The net darning pattern is a star shape.  Unfortunately this has not been as effective as the flower pattern.  The coverage within the cut away section does not show much of the net darning.  I also had some problems when cutting away the organdie from the back of the work and a small repair had to be made with 160 lace thread.  Still it is done - this side took six hours to complete.  

The motif on the left hand side worked much better as the pattern was more solid filling the open area more effectively.

Left hand side motif with net darning insert

Practising the net darning insert for the leaf motif

18-20 October:  

I completed the net darning some time ago.  The time has come to get on with inserting it into a full-scale sample on my practice piece.  Tracy suggested some points to remember:  Organdie can be used as the support on the back of the work but this must be on the same grain as the linen top fabric.  The net darning itself can be at an angle if this fits in with the overall design.  This is good news at the leaf sections are at different angles on the left and right side of my design.

The shape outline should already be on the linen from the tack and tear, but check this absolutely accurate.  Use a fine thread (e.g. a double thread of 160 lace thread), and a small running stitch for the outline of the shape to be filled on the top layer (the linen), this must be absolutely accurately placed.  This will be used as the guide line for the outline trailing later.

Line up the grain of the organdie to the linen, cut a rectangle of organdie that is at least 1cm bigger all round than the shape to be filled.  

Keeping the net flat, place this right side up on the organdie at the desired angle.  Tack into position.  Place this on the back of the linen so the net is the filling in the sandwich -  make absolutely sure the net is in the right place – you won’t be able to see it from the front while stitching.  Tack the three layers together neatly so they don’t move.  Hold the fabric up to the light to check the net is exactly where it should be. 

Another thing I learned after completing the sample  - I should have looked more closely at this stage - I would have seen that the tacking was going to get caught in the stitching... 

Split stitch the outline from the top securing the sandwich together.  Using the chosen threads (e.g. two strands of coton a broder no 16, as the core, and one to wrap), very neatly use trailing around the shape on top of the split stitch.

When trailing is complete, very, very carefully snip at the linen layer close to the trailing to reveal the net stitching below.  Use a pair of lace makers scissors with a ball point on the blades – this should help reduce the possibility of accidentally cutting the net ….

Oops another little diversion and purchase…  have just bought a pair of napping/applique scissors – they have arrived, but they look rather big for delicate work!

The result:   I managed to do the net insert.  See the image of sample.

Overall, I am happy the effect, but the execution needs some improvement.  There are some things I would do differently:

Do not use a coloured tacking thread – IT IS going to get caught up in the stitching and be a nightmare to remove – use a fine white lace cotton thread.

Split stitch and pad the area for satin stitch DO NOT Complete satin stitch until the linen is cut away.

I used two rows of trailing – 2 threads of coton a broder no.16  on the inner row, 3 core on the outer.   Only do the outer row of trailing before snipping away the top layer of linen.  When the linen is cut away, then do the inner row of trailing and the padded satin stitch, this should help mask any stray linen threads at the edges. 

My next lesson is 27 October – I must have some progress on my actual piece of work.

Having used the net darning for my sample I need to complete another piece on the silk net for my actual work.

Practising surface stitches

13 October – Lesson number 3 (?) at Tracy’s 

There has been quite a long gap between stitching sessions due to holiday and preparing for the Embroiderers’ Guild Branch AGM…  Slight distraction, while browsing for more books on stitching ideas I came across a bargain copy of ‘Pulled Thread’ by Moira McNeill.  Although originally published in 1971, it is just fabulous.  There are so many different stitches, very clearly photographed with good diagrams to show movement of stitches across the fabric.  In my opinion this book is far better than the RSN essential guide (sorry RSN – but you don’t always get it right!). Now back to work.

Still practising on the sample piece.  Have been trying a couple of drawn thread designs for a border.  This pattern comes from my ancient copy of ‘Mary Thomas’s Embroidery Book’.

I could really get carried away with this and do a complete sampler piece…  but must focus!

I have been thinking more about the leaves that hang down from the main twisted stems.  In my original design I was going to do one with long and short stitch and the other with raised fishbone stitch.  But I just cannot get the long and short neat enough on the 32-count linen.  Having spent so much time worrying about this I had decided to abandon that idea and try some different textured surface stitches.  

These ideas are based on canvas work stitches such as Hungarian Grounding, Scotch Stitch and Chequer Grounding.  Threads:  2 strands of stranded cotton are too clumsy so that was pulled out straight away.  Perle no 12 was too heavy and I didn’t like the vertical appearance of the stitch. 1 stand of the stranded cotton with the scotch stitch seemed to be ok but it lacked something.  Tried a one wrap French knot with the Diamant in the gaps, but not sure about this either.  After much pulling out and starting again, I eventually liked the Chequer Grounding using 1 strand of S5200; stitched on the diagonal with a gap between sequences 12321 – 12321 – 12321;  then a gap between the rows.  

This left space between the rows to stitch a 121 pattern.  I tried the single strand of stranded cotton but it looked very lost.... the tried with the diamant thread.  The sparkle is there but is quite subtle. Unfortunately the photo doesn't pick up the sparkle of the diamant.

Haven't done any more stitching on my proper piece - still just practising.  Must make a decision on whether or not there is going to be any more pulled work.

My next task is to do a full size sample of the net insertion - I've been putting this off, because it involves cutting the fabric and this scares me!

Whitework Homework - The twisted stems

Homework 18-20 September

Catching up posting the blog... I started my notes before the holiday, but didn't get around to taking the photos.  Here is the September progress:

Must make some progress with the pulled work for my work, I seem to have been working on the Practice piece too much.  Ha! Ha!, what does the homework start with… Sampling for one of the large stems -  Reverse Single Faggot stitch.  Cordonet Special no.20 B5200 over three horizontal/vertical threads.  I like the holey effect this has but it is quite difficult to work it on a long curving stem,  the edges are not very smooth, I don't think the trailing will be able to hid the unevenness.  Will have to rethink this stitch.

Sampling stitches for the main stems

For second stem, tried a variation of a Counted Satin Stitch (also known as Gobelin filling stitch), 1 vertical stitch over 6 horizontal threads, then repeat, right across the row.  On Second row, stitch between the previous stitches, dropping thee rows to creating an interlocking pattern similar to brick pattern. 

Also tried a variation of brick pattern, using two then three adjacent stitches over the verticals.  Sample with different threads to have a texture contrast with first stem.  Not so sure about this.

The final version of stems is shown below.  I used the Gobelin filling with Cordonet No20 on one stem, then I eventually decided to use a double mock faggot stitch for .  This has a very similar look to the Reverse Single Faggot, but is worked horizontally across the shape.  I found this much easier to work.  The trailing should smooth off the edges.

Twisted stems on the final piece